Key West

In December this past year we visited Key West to try to find some warm weather. This was our third time visiting, second time in December. I had forgotten how popular Key West is with non-U.S. visitors but in hindsight I think it was the timing of the year. I would say we were greatly outnumbered by Europeans and Asians visiting the area and they were not just visitors from the cruise ships that docked there each day. Hearing a variety of accents by the pool made our trip seem even more exotic!

Once again we stayed at the Hyatt Resort & Spa (not to be confused with other Hyatt location, this one is near the wharf and historic area). It has recently been remodeled and the rooms are very nice. We did not visit the spa because the prices were too high but who needs a spa when the weather is nice enough to lay by the pool every day. Besides the pool and sundecks overlooking the water is the main draw for us to this hotel. It is also conveniently located to the historic area and made more affordable if you take part in their sunshine on sale deal where you get one night free when you pay for three nights. Service is hit or miss but then that is typical of Key West overall. Slower pace is the norm and patience is critical for being able to accept and enjoy that.

We have done the tourist stuff before so this trip was all about relaxation and good food. There are several places we enjoy going to every visit plus we also tired some new places, too.

Hog's Breath Saloon

A classic dive bar in my opinion except that maybe having more than location prevents it from technically being a dive bar. Great covered outdoor seating and bar area, music nightly, cool interior with lots of TVs for when the weather isn't great for sitting outside, cheap beer, and a feeling that everyone knows each other. This is the first place I ever had smoked fish dip, one of Brad's favorites that has grown on me over time. It is hickory smoked mahi-mahi in a creamy dip served with saltines. This time we also enjoyed the fish nuggets: chunks of mahi-mahi lightly dusted with breading and deep fried then served with tartar sauce. But in our opinion the wings are their best bar snack!! They appear to be soaked in a hot sauce then breaded and deep fried with more hot sauce served on the side. Perfectly cooked like some of the best fried chicken you ever had and we both agree they do not need the side sauce at all. We always go to Hog’s Breath more than once each trip and skip all the other touristy bars.

Mr. Z's

Last time we were in Key West we saw a commercial late one night about the best cheesesteak’s in Key West. The commercial, or maybe it was segment on one of those beach TV type channels, was extremely compelling stating that they were authentic cheesesteaks since the owner had moved to Key West from Philadelphia. I LOVE cheesesteak and am very picky and rarely satisfied with the offering at most places so we had to try it. The first one I had that trip I burned the roof of my mouth because I could not wait for it to cool. But it was so good we went back a second time during our stay. And again on this most recent trip we went to Mr. Z’s twice for cheesesteaks allowing us to have them with all three cheese options: white American, classic cheese whiz, or smoked provolone. While both the classic wiz and smoke provolone is good, my preference is the white American which they keep melted in a large vat and then pour across the top of the sandwich. For a process cheese food lover this stuff is like crack and I will eat it till I am physically sick. Mr. Z’s is a hole in the wall pizza delivery place that consists of the working kitchen behind the order counter and a row of maybe 8 barstools lined up along a make-shift bar counter running along the wall of the store. Try to get the seats near the little window so you can watch street traffic. And if you are lucky you will be in there when the “fun shift” is working who catcall to all the lovely ladies walking by (in good fun).

La Trattoria

We have eaten at this Italian restaurant every time we have been to Key West and have never been disappointed. It is my favorite spot for a really nice meal at a really decent price. The menu has a wide variety of classic Italian trattoria dishes, good wine list, and the bar knows how to make a great drink (dirty martini for me and Woodford Reserve Manhattan for Brad). The restaurant is intimate and warm with a real Italian family feel with how the staff treats you. Good spot for a romantic dinner or a fun evening with a group. We shared a Caesar salad and then I had Cannelloni della Case: cannelloni with a filling of ground veal and spinach baked in a tomato cream sauce. Brad had Agnello alla Grilia: grilled lamb chops served with fresh rosemary cassis sauce. Be careful not to confuse the entrance with the sister bar Virgilio’s which is right next door. But then if all you are interested is in a damn good cocktail then maybe that is exactly where you should go.

Rum Barrel

This was new to us as it was not there on our previous trip. Just off the crazy beaten path so still convenient but not out-the-door crowded. The menu has a nice variety of items to choose from and it is one of the few restaurants (that we visit) with a selection of beer beyond Bud Light and Yuengling (they had Smithwick’s on draft and Rogue in the bottle). The bar area is nice and the dining area is open to the street. We shared the Buffalo Rock Shrimp: rock shrimp with Cajun seasoning, lightly fried then tossed with hot sauce served with bleu cheese and celery. This was really good. Just barely fried and no heavy breading at all, tangy just like buffalo wings. Rock shrimp are the smaller shrimp and they were cooked perfectly, not soggy and the last few bites were as good as the first few. Brad had the Patty Melt which had to be one of the largest sandwich/burgers I have seen in a long time. He only ate half of it and packed the rest as leftovers for the room. I had the Lobster Pot Pie: creamy bisque loaded with lobster and mixed vegetables in a puff pastry. WOW. Generous large chunks of lobster and the bisque was good but not overly rich. I was afraid I would eat a few bites and then be tired of it but I ate the whole thing - very comforting. We liked the food and location so will add to our regular spots for future trips.

Croissants de France

This place was also new to us this trip. Two options: a walk up coffee bar with pastries or opt for the sit down bistro next door. We opted for the bistro, which has a sidewalk café feel to it, and were not disappointed. Every kind of coffee you can imagine and croissants like you never imagined; the extensive menu has European and American style breakfast items. I had the chef’s omelet of the day which had brie, tomatoes, basil and was served with a whole baguette and fruit bowl. Brad had Crepes Josephine: grilled banana, toasted almonds, cane sugar with a light rum sauce (if you set it on fire it would be a lot like bananas foster). Both dishes were generous and absolutely marvelous!

Two Friends Patio

Another new to us place. We have to put in our “too much to drink” disclaimer here. We ate here the first night after not having lunch during travel, delayed check in resulting in the hotel providing us with free champagne, high alcohol content beers at the pool bar while waiting on room, drinks and only a light snack at Hog’s Breath leading to – wait, we have not had much food and are starving ergo a visit to this place for a burger. I am sure the place is nice I just don’t really recall. I know the swiss mushroom burger we shared was the best food I have ever eaten but then cardboard dipped in ketchup would have been the best food ever at that stage in the evening.

Turtle Kraals

We always eat at one of the many restaurants along the water down at the wharf at some point during our stay for the sole purpose of eating oysters overlooking the water and all the docked boats. This time we picked Turtle Kraals and were not disappointed. We were there around 3 PM and oysters were 50 cents so we ended up having 3 dozen because they were good sized and tasted great. And this is the only place where I was offered a local beer this trip: Key West Sunset Ale, an amber with a slight hint of citrus. It was nice sitting right on the water watching people prep their boats as well as watching people walking along the boardwalk. And our waiter recognized us as being from NC from our accents! Turns out he was from New Bern.

Amigos

This place was not only new to us but brand new having only been open four weeks. They have a walkup order spot for coffee and a seating area that faces the street. Since they are located at Green and Duval they are in a perfect spot for people watching and if you go for breakfast it is a great way to see Key West wake up. We went there the first morning so Brad could get coffee and a Danish to start the day and he had the guava Danish (amazing) and black coffee. I drooled over the breakfast menu so we came back another morning and I had the huevos rancheros: fresh made tortillas topped with beans then fried eggs with tomatoes, jalapenos, onions, queso fresco and sour cream. This was absolutely one of the best breakfast dishes I have had in a long time. Everything was so fresh. Brad had the burrito which was filled with eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and salsa. It was HUGE and also very good. I had the coffee con leche and loved it. This place reports to be the only place that makes square tacos in the U.S. and you can watch them make them while you eat. My only suggestion if you go is not to sit in the front area facing the sidewalk in the morning if you plan to eat spicy food and drink hot coffee. With the sun pouring in on me I thought I was going to burst into flames! We really enjoyed this place and not only would go back for breakfast but would also try for lunch and afternoon snacks and late night snacks.

January Wine Dinner at Biaggi's

Once again we attended the latest Biaggi's Club Wine Dinner with Dad and Linda this past Friday night.  Like before, it is a 6 course 7 wine pairing for $65 per person (inclusive of tax and gratuity).  The start time of this dinner ended up being a bit confusing.  The previous two "started" at 6:30 with seating right away with the service beginning closer to 7 PM.  The invite this time said 6 PM so we called to confirm because it was earlier than the previous events (and different than the timing of the upcoming February event). This time when we arrived right at 6 PM there was a large crowd of other wine dinner participants filling the space of the wait area because Biaggi's did not have the dinner area ready.  We waited maybe 5 minutes and shortly after 6 PM they seated us.  Not sure what had happened but I overheard the hostess answer the phone and tell the person that unless it was a life emergency that the manager was not available at that moment (all hands on deck we have a crisis that needs fixing ASAP).  They had gone back to having names on the tables this time so that made it easier to find our spots. 

And then the wait began.  Once again, it was nearly 35 minutes before they poured the first wine.  I am not sure if this is a built in time that they assume they need 30 minutes between seating and service or if they truly do wait for a majority and things get put on hold because of one or two late comers.  I think this is my only compliant about their format.  The time is too long for basic conversation/get to know new people without something to nibble on and drink.  I think they would do far better to spend this time telling about the wine, etc. so that when things do begin everyone can enjoy.  Just my two cents but you could make it eight cents based on my party and their opinions.  And if they are waiting for late comers, I am sorry, that is the late comers issue and I should not be penalized for their lack of ability to arrive on time.

But aside from that period of time, where you start to get hungry and anxious about them starting, the evening was very nice.  It was just the four of us at our table which did allow us to have private family based conversations.  And this time we either had had all the wines we were tasting or at least had tasted a varietal of the label.  Because we were familiar with the wines we could really enjoy how the food paired with the wine.

Amuse Bouche - Italian cheeses, olives, breads with Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc

Three Italian cheeses: Robiola Bosina soft cheese similar to Brie, Piave hard cheese similar to Parmigiano Reggiano, and Asiago a nutty flavored firm cheese; served with two kinds of olives, a tapenade, crostini and rustic breads.  This was served family style and was a nice way to start things off.  The Robiola Bosina as well as the tapenade were the table's favorites and while the olives were tasty we agreed that they did not pair well with the wine.  The Sauvignon Blanc is described as having bright acidity, aromas of lime blossom, lemongrass, grapefruit and honeysuckle with nuances of peach and minerals and a clean flinty finish.  It was light, a tad tart so I think I picked up on the grapefruit and the minerals.  While it did not go well with olives it was very nice with the cheeses and tapenade.  Of the two white wines it was the table's favorite.

Tirolese Canederli - Dumplings in broth with Wild Horse Chardonnay

Tender Italian dumplings with smoked bacon in a rich broth.  We all agreed that the broth was very good but the dumplings felt a bit heavy as they were similar to concept of Matzah ball soup.  The Chardonnay is oak barrel aged described as having depth and richness, full mouth feel with citrus, pear, apple coupled with good acidity.  We are not Chardonnay fans but I thought that the wine was nice.  It wasn't heavy and the oak was subtle.  Initially it went well with the soup but I found that the more of the broth I tasted the more it made the wine taste sour.  I think this wine would be better paired with other food.

Radicchio Rosa with Duck Confit with Paso Creek Zinfandel

Bacon braised radicchio and warmed duck confit with sauteed onion, roasted garlic and Moscato vinagrette.  WOW.  Everyone loved this dish, even those of us who do not like duck.  The meat was shredded, tender and slightly sweet making it a good pairing with the bitter radicchio.  There were pieces of crispy duck skin (which somehow I did not get) that everyone loved.  The Zinfandel is described as bold, full-bodied, densely flavored with aromas of cherry, plum, cocoa bean, nutmeg, sandalwood, and vanilla with main flavors of cherry and chocolate.  I would not describe as full-bodied and thought it was more medium-bodied which several at the table agreed with and we decided this was because we tend to drink Old Vine Zins which are heavier than classic Zinfandel.  The wine was good and was nice on its own as well as with the food.

Local Rainbow Trout with Risotto with Estancia Pinot Noir

Locally raised rainbow trout paired with creamy risotto with browned sage butter.  Double WOW.  I hope this is on their main menu as I will definitely order again if I have the chance.  The trout was cooked perfectly and paired very well with the risotto with the entire dish being buttery but not dripping with butter.  I wanted to eat it all and lick the plate but was getting full so gave up half my fish to Brad and finished my risotto.  The Pinot Noir is described as having supple tannins, soft luscious aromas of dark berries, caramel, allspice and flavors of black cherry and plum with balance of vanilla for a rich finish.  This is a very nice Pinot and was light on its own but paired amazingly well with the dish helping to keep the butteriness of the dish from being too much.

Coniglio in Peperonata with Franciscan Merlot and Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet

Herbed wine and pepper braised rabbit and aromatic vegetables atop baked polenta. No one liked this dish.  In part it simply was no where near as good as the trout and we were all full at this stage.  But several of us were put off by the portion of meat having tendons in it.  I have had rabbit before and loved it so this simply was how it was prepared. The seasonings, including that of the polenta, were overly strong with sauteed peppers.  After the butteriness of the previous dish this was a tart and off putting transition.  The Merlot is described as having aromas of cherries and plum with peppercorn and soft mid-palate of cherry, sage, black currant and finish of vanilla and tobacco.  This is a good wine.  The Cabernet Sauvignon is described as profound and intense with concentrated fruit, warm vanilla and star anise with powerful mid-palate of blackberry and currant flavors.  This was the preferred red wine of the night for the table and for those of us willing to take repeated tastes of the rabbit it paired better with that dish than the Merlot. 

Panforte with Cappuccino Brulee with Robert Mondavi Moscato

Richly spiced fruit and nut torte paired with cappuccino creme brulee.  Loved the cappuccino brulee as it was strong and bitter like an espresso shot.  I am not a fan of nuts so did not try the torte but it was a hit with the others and we brought my piece home for Brad to have later.  The Moscato is described as exotic floral aromas of pink jasmine and lemon blossoms with tropical notes of guava and lychee and on the palate orange and spice with a refreshing finish.  I love Moscato and would have it without any dessert given the choice.  I think this one was very good and a fair trade for Brad to have my torte and me to have his wine.

We did not buy any of the wines this time only because they are all readily available locally.  If they had not been we would have purchased the Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, Estancia Pinot, Modavi Cabernet and also the Moscato.