Key West

In December this past year we visited Key West to try to find some warm weather. This was our third time visiting, second time in December. I had forgotten how popular Key West is with non-U.S. visitors but in hindsight I think it was the timing of the year. I would say we were greatly outnumbered by Europeans and Asians visiting the area and they were not just visitors from the cruise ships that docked there each day. Hearing a variety of accents by the pool made our trip seem even more exotic!

Once again we stayed at the Hyatt Resort & Spa (not to be confused with other Hyatt location, this one is near the wharf and historic area). It has recently been remodeled and the rooms are very nice. We did not visit the spa because the prices were too high but who needs a spa when the weather is nice enough to lay by the pool every day. Besides the pool and sundecks overlooking the water is the main draw for us to this hotel. It is also conveniently located to the historic area and made more affordable if you take part in their sunshine on sale deal where you get one night free when you pay for three nights. Service is hit or miss but then that is typical of Key West overall. Slower pace is the norm and patience is critical for being able to accept and enjoy that.

We have done the tourist stuff before so this trip was all about relaxation and good food. There are several places we enjoy going to every visit plus we also tired some new places, too.

Hog's Breath Saloon

A classic dive bar in my opinion except that maybe having more than location prevents it from technically being a dive bar. Great covered outdoor seating and bar area, music nightly, cool interior with lots of TVs for when the weather isn't great for sitting outside, cheap beer, and a feeling that everyone knows each other. This is the first place I ever had smoked fish dip, one of Brad's favorites that has grown on me over time. It is hickory smoked mahi-mahi in a creamy dip served with saltines. This time we also enjoyed the fish nuggets: chunks of mahi-mahi lightly dusted with breading and deep fried then served with tartar sauce. But in our opinion the wings are their best bar snack!! They appear to be soaked in a hot sauce then breaded and deep fried with more hot sauce served on the side. Perfectly cooked like some of the best fried chicken you ever had and we both agree they do not need the side sauce at all. We always go to Hog’s Breath more than once each trip and skip all the other touristy bars.

Mr. Z's

Last time we were in Key West we saw a commercial late one night about the best cheesesteak’s in Key West. The commercial, or maybe it was segment on one of those beach TV type channels, was extremely compelling stating that they were authentic cheesesteaks since the owner had moved to Key West from Philadelphia. I LOVE cheesesteak and am very picky and rarely satisfied with the offering at most places so we had to try it. The first one I had that trip I burned the roof of my mouth because I could not wait for it to cool. But it was so good we went back a second time during our stay. And again on this most recent trip we went to Mr. Z’s twice for cheesesteaks allowing us to have them with all three cheese options: white American, classic cheese whiz, or smoked provolone. While both the classic wiz and smoke provolone is good, my preference is the white American which they keep melted in a large vat and then pour across the top of the sandwich. For a process cheese food lover this stuff is like crack and I will eat it till I am physically sick. Mr. Z’s is a hole in the wall pizza delivery place that consists of the working kitchen behind the order counter and a row of maybe 8 barstools lined up along a make-shift bar counter running along the wall of the store. Try to get the seats near the little window so you can watch street traffic. And if you are lucky you will be in there when the “fun shift” is working who catcall to all the lovely ladies walking by (in good fun).

La Trattoria

We have eaten at this Italian restaurant every time we have been to Key West and have never been disappointed. It is my favorite spot for a really nice meal at a really decent price. The menu has a wide variety of classic Italian trattoria dishes, good wine list, and the bar knows how to make a great drink (dirty martini for me and Woodford Reserve Manhattan for Brad). The restaurant is intimate and warm with a real Italian family feel with how the staff treats you. Good spot for a romantic dinner or a fun evening with a group. We shared a Caesar salad and then I had Cannelloni della Case: cannelloni with a filling of ground veal and spinach baked in a tomato cream sauce. Brad had Agnello alla Grilia: grilled lamb chops served with fresh rosemary cassis sauce. Be careful not to confuse the entrance with the sister bar Virgilio’s which is right next door. But then if all you are interested is in a damn good cocktail then maybe that is exactly where you should go.

Rum Barrel

This was new to us as it was not there on our previous trip. Just off the crazy beaten path so still convenient but not out-the-door crowded. The menu has a nice variety of items to choose from and it is one of the few restaurants (that we visit) with a selection of beer beyond Bud Light and Yuengling (they had Smithwick’s on draft and Rogue in the bottle). The bar area is nice and the dining area is open to the street. We shared the Buffalo Rock Shrimp: rock shrimp with Cajun seasoning, lightly fried then tossed with hot sauce served with bleu cheese and celery. This was really good. Just barely fried and no heavy breading at all, tangy just like buffalo wings. Rock shrimp are the smaller shrimp and they were cooked perfectly, not soggy and the last few bites were as good as the first few. Brad had the Patty Melt which had to be one of the largest sandwich/burgers I have seen in a long time. He only ate half of it and packed the rest as leftovers for the room. I had the Lobster Pot Pie: creamy bisque loaded with lobster and mixed vegetables in a puff pastry. WOW. Generous large chunks of lobster and the bisque was good but not overly rich. I was afraid I would eat a few bites and then be tired of it but I ate the whole thing - very comforting. We liked the food and location so will add to our regular spots for future trips.

Croissants de France

This place was also new to us this trip. Two options: a walk up coffee bar with pastries or opt for the sit down bistro next door. We opted for the bistro, which has a sidewalk café feel to it, and were not disappointed. Every kind of coffee you can imagine and croissants like you never imagined; the extensive menu has European and American style breakfast items. I had the chef’s omelet of the day which had brie, tomatoes, basil and was served with a whole baguette and fruit bowl. Brad had Crepes Josephine: grilled banana, toasted almonds, cane sugar with a light rum sauce (if you set it on fire it would be a lot like bananas foster). Both dishes were generous and absolutely marvelous!

Two Friends Patio

Another new to us place. We have to put in our “too much to drink” disclaimer here. We ate here the first night after not having lunch during travel, delayed check in resulting in the hotel providing us with free champagne, high alcohol content beers at the pool bar while waiting on room, drinks and only a light snack at Hog’s Breath leading to – wait, we have not had much food and are starving ergo a visit to this place for a burger. I am sure the place is nice I just don’t really recall. I know the swiss mushroom burger we shared was the best food I have ever eaten but then cardboard dipped in ketchup would have been the best food ever at that stage in the evening.

Turtle Kraals

We always eat at one of the many restaurants along the water down at the wharf at some point during our stay for the sole purpose of eating oysters overlooking the water and all the docked boats. This time we picked Turtle Kraals and were not disappointed. We were there around 3 PM and oysters were 50 cents so we ended up having 3 dozen because they were good sized and tasted great. And this is the only place where I was offered a local beer this trip: Key West Sunset Ale, an amber with a slight hint of citrus. It was nice sitting right on the water watching people prep their boats as well as watching people walking along the boardwalk. And our waiter recognized us as being from NC from our accents! Turns out he was from New Bern.

Amigos

This place was not only new to us but brand new having only been open four weeks. They have a walkup order spot for coffee and a seating area that faces the street. Since they are located at Green and Duval they are in a perfect spot for people watching and if you go for breakfast it is a great way to see Key West wake up. We went there the first morning so Brad could get coffee and a Danish to start the day and he had the guava Danish (amazing) and black coffee. I drooled over the breakfast menu so we came back another morning and I had the huevos rancheros: fresh made tortillas topped with beans then fried eggs with tomatoes, jalapenos, onions, queso fresco and sour cream. This was absolutely one of the best breakfast dishes I have had in a long time. Everything was so fresh. Brad had the burrito which was filled with eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and salsa. It was HUGE and also very good. I had the coffee con leche and loved it. This place reports to be the only place that makes square tacos in the U.S. and you can watch them make them while you eat. My only suggestion if you go is not to sit in the front area facing the sidewalk in the morning if you plan to eat spicy food and drink hot coffee. With the sun pouring in on me I thought I was going to burst into flames! We really enjoyed this place and not only would go back for breakfast but would also try for lunch and afternoon snacks and late night snacks.