Cheese Tasting: Session 3

This session occurred at a Biaggi’s wine dinner and the verbiage is taken from their tasting menu:

Robiola Bosina: (Italy) from Langhe region of northern Italy, is a perfect, creamy blend of cow’s and sheep’s milk. Robiolas come in many shapes and sizes; this flat, square little pillow contains a luxurious, silky paste with smooth, well-balanced flavors. Bosina’s rind is resilient enough to protect its interior while it ripens to a deliciously runny consistency. The paste itself is mild, sweet, milky, and well worth trying with a wide range of wines from Merlot to Sauvignon Blanc. Try it with local silky Dolcetto d’Alba or Barbera. We both really liked and would definitely get to have at home. It is similar to brie and was lovely on a piece of crusty bread as well as a piece of crisp toast.

Piave: (Italy) is named after the river Piave, whose source is found at Mount Peralba in Val Visdende, in the northernmost part of the province of Veneto, Italy. The land surrounding the ancient river is integral to the character of the cheese: it is where the milk is collected, the curd cooked, and the cheese aged until hard. Piave has an intense, full-bodied flavor, reminiscent of Parmigiano Reggiano, that intensifies with age and makes this cheese absolutely unique. Pair Piave with Zinfandel. We rated it as okay and least favorite of the three. While it might be similar to Parmigiano it lacks the pleasing salty character.

Asiago: (Italy) is a nutty flavored cheese that hails from the Italian region known as the Asiago high Plateau, which lies within the Italian Alps. As far back as the year 1000 AD, Asiago cheese was produced by farmers in the regions for use locally. Now, it is manufactured commercially in northeast Italy, specifically in the provinces of Vincenza e trento, Padua, and in Treviso. This was our second favorite and we both liked it. It does have a nice nutty flavor and is medium soft.

Yadkin Valley Wine Tour: Day 4

Day four was our return journey to Raleigh with two stops along the way. First stop was an old favorite: RayLen.  This place has been one of our favorites ever since they opened. Here the vines are grafts from California vines so they inherently have the flavors that people who like California wines will recognize and enjoy. RayLen also blends wines for many other wineries in the area such as Flint Hill. The RayLen property is very scenic and their staff in the tasting room is fantastic. Note that they are not open on Sunday but are one of the few in the area open on Monday. Our consistent favorite here is the Category 5 Bordeaux style blend. It is a nice big, bold red wine that always pleases. The RayLen Cabernet is also an excellent red wine for those looking for a basic Cabernet instead of a blend. We tasted all fifteen wines (note that the tastings are broken up into flights of white or red or the complete flight which is all white and red plus reserve wines).

• Pinot Grigio – very light, some fruit, not overly tart
• Chardonnay (no oak) – light, clean, best non-oak Chardonnay of trip
• Barrel Chardonnay (oak) – warmer then the non-oak, some sweetness
• SMV Chardonnay (oak) – reserve wine, light, has some oak
• Viognier – crisp, nice fruit, bright
• Yadkin Gold (Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio) – green tasting, light, crisp
• Riesling – buttery, cannot taste the honeysuckle they indicate is in it, sweetest of the whites
• Carolinius (Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot) – light red, has nice spice, can taste the Cabernet Franc
• Shiraz – light spice, good body
• Merlot – not peppery like most Merlot, blackberry flavors
• Cabernet Franc – nice body but needs food to really enjoy
• Category 5 (Cabernet Sauvignon blend) – nice, dry, big, excellent wine
• Cabernet Sauvignon – good basic Cabernet with hints of tobacco
• Eagle’s Select (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot) – reserve wine, good tannins, some tartness from Cabernet Franc, oaky
• Pale Red (Rose) - sweet, very fruity

The view at RayLen

Childress was our last stop of the wine weekend and quite different from the majority of other vineyards and wineries we toured. This place is huge and reminds me of some of the major estates in Napa. Here the varieties are more of the European based ones; therefore, like RayLen, they are closer in flavor profiles to that of California wines versus native NC varietals or the more non-traditional varieties that many people are growing in NC. Also, money can buy instant success with a well renowned wine maker directing the blending. There is nothing wrong with this and it is an amazing winery with wonderful wines which is good for NC and the growing wine tourism industry. But everyone should also experience the mom and pops, the ones struggling to get people to understand and appreciate the differences in NC wines grown both from native grape varieties and varieties that most people are not familiar with that do quite well in NC but do not taste like it was grown in Napa. Having said that – if you want to buy an impressive NC wine for those who love California wines this is one of the few places in NC (along with RayLen) to do so. 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is well worth the money. They have three tasting options and we opted for the Signature tasting which allowed us to taste both the signature and reserve wines (total of seven wines). That tasting also got us the nicest wine glasses we have ever received during a tasting.

• Signature Chardonnay (oak) – harsher bouquet, strong alcohol scent, good mouth feel
• Reserve Chardonnay (oak) – some crispness, buttery, preferred over Signature Chardonnay
• Signature Meritage (red blend) – nice bouquet, good balance, more oaky
• Signature Merlot – peppery on finish, more oak, not as pleasing as Reserve Merlot
• Reserve Merlot – light pepper, medium tannins, very nice
• Reserve Cabernet Franc – very pleasant, best Cabernet Franc of trip (normally this wine is only used in blends)
• Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – big red, bold, very well balanced

Childress

Yadkin Valley Wine Tour: Day 3

Day three was back to making our own adventure. We had selected four wineries to try to visit and ended up adding a fifth along the way. If you can plan your outing in the fall, this area and in particular the route between these wineries is absolutely beautiful. There are some other wineries closer to some of these but they are ones we had already visited or had plans to visit the next day based on which ones were open on Sunday.

First stop was Hanover Park in Yadkinville, NC. We had actually been to the winery before but found that they were not open that time so we were pleased to finally get to do a tasting after having enjoyed a bottle of their wine out at dinner on a previous trip. This is one of the better wineries in the area in our opinion in terms of caliber of the wine. The tasting takes place in the old farmhouse that has been refurbished as a tasting and dinner facility. We had the added pleasure of having the house cocker spaniel join us during our tasting. They do limit the number of wines you can taste to five but Brad and I selected different ones and shared a couple.

• Viognier – very nice body, slight fruit, not overly sweet
• Barrel Chardonnay – light for a Chardonnay, only aged six months so not as oaky as some
• Mourvedre (red blend with less than 20% Syrah) – slightly tart alone but paired well with bread dipped in balsamic vinegar, very nice
• Chambourcin – medium body, not overly spicy but Brad did not like (too much clove)
• Michael’s Blend (varies each year and version we tried was a Cabernet Franc + Merlot) – medium body, slight tart in finish but nice
• 1897 (Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) – excellent, mild with good body
• Early Twilight (Muscat + Muscadine) – good mouth feel, not cloy, lightly sweet



View from back deck at Brandon Hills



Brandon Hills, also in Yadkinville, was the next stop and was added at the last minute based on having some time to kill before our next planned stop. This property is a new large cabin on a beautiful site with a great deck overlooking the vineyard (bring a picnic). The owner was doing the tasting and he really liked to talk about the wines. They are only open on the weekends as this is their “expensive hobby”. We tasted all seven wines here and while they were good, they are still young and a step down from Hanover Park.


• 2007 Pinot Gris – light, dry, well balanced but tart-ish
• 2008 Pinot Gris – nice but not as good as the 2007
• Barbera – light body, balanced flavor, mild
• Merlot – not as peppery as some, better body
• Raptor Red (46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and the remaining made up from Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Viognier) – good mouth feel, tannins present, balanced flavor
• White Merlot (100% Merlot grapes but processed like a white grape) – light, summery, not too sweet, like a white Zinfandel but better
• Rip Tide Rose (Merlot, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon) – nice, light, good balance



Allison Oaks was stop number three and is located in a storefront in downtown Yadkinville. The two gentlemen (father and son) were an absolute hoot as the place was being used for a bridal shower so they were thrilled to step aside and run the tasting bar. They gave stingy pours which made it hard to discern how good the wines really tasted. We actually bought several bottles only to be disappointed when we could really have a try at them later - too young. We did try all seven wines.

• Proprietor’s Blend (Red Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah) – peppery taste
• Merlot – good body, tannins
• Cabernet Sauvignon – lighter body
• Chardonnay (no oak) – crisp, not as minerally as others
• Orchard White – not overly sweet, some fruit
• DZ Rose of Zin – pepper fragrance
• Ms Mimi (Muscadine + Chambourcin) – medium sweet

RagApple Lassie was next in Boonville, NC. This is a really neat place and had the best wines of the day in our opinion (not to mention one of the coolest labels). They do limit the number you can taste but have the best descriptions of their wines of any location we have visited in NC. We tasted five wines.

• Cabernet Sauvignon – good body, well balanced, excellent
• Syrah – light pepper that mellows, nice mild tannins, good wine
• Zinfandel – mild oak, strong body almost like old vine Zinfandel
• Rockford Red (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel) – sweeter, good mouth feel but a little cloy
• Hobson’s Choice – nice tannins, big bold wine, lighter finish but not empty



Flint Hill



Flint Hill in East Bend, NC was our final stop of the day. Nice site, beautiful old house and we would love to go back for dinner in the Century Kitchen where they do the tastings. We tasted all eight wines and while not as good as RagApple they are easily as good as Hanover Park. The exception was the Chambourcin which was the best version of that wine we tasted the entire trip. One key thing to note about this location is that the wines are actually processed at RayLen using grapes grown at this site.

• Viognier - somewhat tart, not as minerally as others
• Chardonnay (no oak) – tart, light mineral taste
• Synergy (80% Syrah, 20% Viognier) – nice balance, really like, some tannins
• Syrah – some berry flavors, oaky, good balance, very nice
• Chambourcin – good body, less spicy than most, milder oak
• Cabernet Sauvignon – good tannins, nice body and lighter finish
• Olde Yattken (Viognier + Chardonnay) – mild, fruity, like a Riesling
• Crushed Velvet (Chambourcin) - very sweet, chocolate like

Yadkin Valley Wine Tour: Day 2

Day two consisted of an actual bus tour as arranged through Yadkin Valley Wine Tours. This was an interesting experience and I would highly recommend it, especially for anyone that has never done wine tours before. They handle everything including lunch, fees for tastings, and transportation. We only had a couple of little glitches, the first being that it turns out that there were so many people on the tour from Raleigh that they actually arranged for a bus to come from Raleigh. Had we known, we could have ridden along, too but were okay with having driven up the day before since we had made plans for a multi-day visit to the area. The other glitch was that due to the size of the tour group they had to change which wineries we were visiting because some on the original schedule could not accommodate a group of our size. So even though I had picked the tour based on it taking us to wineries we had never been to before we ended up visiting one place we had been to multiple times before and they reduced the tour from four stops to three. That was a bit disappointing but we still managed to have a great time.

A wine tour on a bus quickly becomes a party and you have to be extra careful not to drink too much too soon since you are not worrying about driving. One downside of a large tour group is that they sometimes pick the wines you try and you will not get to taste more than the number that they have arranged for you to taste.

First stop was West Bend in Lewisville, NC. Having been there before, we were not huge fans of their wines but it did give us a chance to see how the wines had developed since our last visit. We were pleased to find that they have greatly improved and we managed to find a very decent Cabernet Sauvignon of which we bought a bottle to have with our lunch. The tour group had arranged for a tour of the winery which we opted not to take since we had been on it before and instead we sat with the organizer and enjoyed our bottle of wine. The grounds are very nice and they have a covered picnic area. We did have one more little glitch during this visit in that someone took my lunch! Apparently the other Vicky in the group didn’t pay attention to what she had ordered and by the time we had purchased our bottle of wine she was well into my sandwich (and never would admit to having made the mistake!). Thankfully, what she had ordered was agreeable to my palate so I adapted to this unplanned switch without too much grumbling.

• Chardonnay (no oak) – crisp but heavy metallic flavor
• First in Flight (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling) - really light, somewhat sweet
• Merlot – rated as their best year ever, good
• Chambourcin – nice pepper, spicy but Brad thought tasted too much like cloves
• Riesling – very nice, good summer drink

After the official tasting, we tried their Cabernet Sauvignon and Reserve Cabernet at their bar where you can buy wine by the glass. The Reserve was very nice but too expensive (they did not take AMEX and we were low on cash) so we ended up with a bottle of the regular Cabernet.



West Bend is an older NC Winery - note the size of this vine



  

Next stop was Grassy Creek in State Road, NC, which is one we had not been to before. This place had a beautiful tasting room and had put out various snacks to have along with the tasting. And while they limited our tasting in terms of number of wines we could try they did let us individually pick the wines we wanted to taste. The wines overall were better than the very young wines we tasted on Day 1 but not as good as West Bend, except for the Cabernet Sauvignon. We bought a bottle of that Cabernet to enjoy out on their little patio and sat with a few folks from our tour (not much of an outdoor area versus some other locations but quite acceptable for a small group - they do have larger gathering areas for events like weddings). This location is one of the few that does not give you the glass as part of the tasting fee.

• Sauvignon Blanc – crisp, very light, grassy
• Red Barn Blend (Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese) – very good, peppery, medium body
• Barbera – light, interesting, currant flavors
• Cabernet Sauvignon – very nice, light body, flavors of plum and blackberry, and we liked enough to request a second taste of it versus picking a 5th choice.

Final stop was Shelton in Dobson, NC. This was our first time there and it was one I had wanted to visit for years. We were a tad disappointed as it a large commercial place set up to do large groups so it lacks the more personal feel. I prefer smaller places where you are talking with someone who is intimate with the process versus a part-timer in a large staff that has just enough training to pour the wines. But my dislike could have been due to the fact that we were rushed as our group was running late and we did not have time to purchase additional tastes of the wines of our choice which I would have liked to have done. I will go back and give them another visit to be able to enjoy the experience better. And I do not want my review to keep others from checking them out.  They are a good winery and everyone should visit to get a feel for the difference between larger commercial style locations versus smaller locations.  They do have massively gorgeous grounds.

• Chardonnay – okay, some oak, vanilla
• Sauvignon Blanc – too tart, very metallic, strong grapefruit
• Syrah – did not like, too light
• Cabernet Sauvignon – good fruit, nice finish
• Yadkin Valley Riesling – very fruity and floral 

We did, without trying, buy a bottle of Madison Lee Red (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc) which was a good everyday table wine.



Busy tasting room at Shelton



Downtown Asheville, NC

Reposted and edited from original post on Facebook Notes from May 21, 2009.

Downtown Asheville has a wide range of restaurants and shops but for me really not a lot of appealing shopping so more of a window browse and stroll kind of place. It is a great place to try lots of local beers and people watch and there are certainly lots of interesting folks to watch here. Not to mention dogs – lots of dogs, so bring your pooch as it is very dog friendly here.  We spent one day wandering around and enjoyed the following places:

Barley's Taproom & Pizzeria: This place was really cool and had an extensive and impressive beer list, both bottle and tap.  We had a wonderful white pizza with spinach and mushrooms and the 14 inch is plenty big for two people. I tried: Pisgah Endless Summer Ale – tasty, a little bitter but not too bitter, crisp; and Pisgah Pub Ale – very good, smooth and mildly sweet, very light.  Brad tried:  Catawba Valley Brown Bear Ale– very good (like Newcastle or Bad Penny); Pisgah Nitrogen Stout – very good (like Guinness); and Catawba Valley Farmer Ted’s Farmhouse Cream Ale – good, light, tasty, goes well with pizza.

Carmel's: Just had drinks – Sangria was excellent as it is made from a truly good wine with fresh juices and is not the overly sweet style that you find at a lot of places. Brad had a glass of house Cabernet.  There is a seat right inside the entrance where you can sit and watch the street which is good when it is too warm to sit outside - very nice.

Bier Garden: Only bar we found with TV’s after a quick search. We watched the Preakness and had a blast because of a crazy old man who was thoroughly lit and heavily into the race. Lots of yelling! This place also has a large beer list and I tried: Appalachian Copperhead Ale – okay, bitter; and Orange Blossom Pilsner – very light, crisp, mild honey, quite drinkable. Brad tried: Stoudt’s Scarlet E.S.B. – not great; and then decided to just go with a well liked known beer - Smithwicks.

Tupelo Honey Cafe: For dinner – started with pimento cheese and chips appetizer which was wonderful. I had shrimp and grits with andouille sausage and lobster – amazing! Brad had jalapeño NY Strip steak – very good.  We had to wait maybe 20 minutes for a table on a Saturday night and ended up being at a spot for two at the bar separating kitchen from seating area. This was a great spot to have dinner and watch and interact with the cooks and waitstaff.

Yadkin Valley Wine Tour: Day 1

In October of 2009 we decided to take a four day trip to explore wineries across NC with our focus on the Yadkin Valley.  Heading out of Raleigh we decided to optimize our travel by stopping at wineries along the way in route to the Yadkin Valley. As such our first stop was Iron Gate in Mebane, NC.

Iron Gate Vineyards: We tasted all 14 selections at this site.  Overall I would say that the wines here were very young tasting with more alcohol taste and not enough “flavor” or "body" behind that alcohol taste. So keeping that in mind our ratings are relative to the level of the wines at this location. The vineyard was only established in 2001 so I suggest visiting and or trying their wines in about 5 more years. The grounds of this location were absolutely beautiful and they had a very nice picnic spot.

• Brightleaf White (80% Viognier, 15% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% Seyval Blanc) - very clean, bright, tart
• Sauvignon Blanc - had a granny smith apple taste and was tart
• Chardonnay - very light for a Chardonnay
• Pack House Red (70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, and 15% Chambourcin) - good, light, mild
• Merlot - mild with some pepper
• Chambourcin - heavier than Merlot and better, some spice
• Cabernet Sauvignon - strong, maybe better with age
• Country Blooming (Riesling) - bright but soft, good summer wine
• Rustic Blooming (50% Niagra, 50% Chambourcin) - sweet/sour, so not overly sweet
• Dixie Dawn (Sangiovese) - tastes of strawberry and would be a good sangria base
• Flue Fire (50% Niagra, 50% muscadine) - sweet
• Once In A Carolina Blue Moon (Traminette, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Seyval Blanc) - good mouth feel
• Green Apple - tasted like kool aid
• Blackberry - very nice, jolly rancher

Next on the trail was Glen Marie Winery in Graham, NC. We tasted all of their selections and classified this location as having lots of sweet wines. They do have a non-oaked Chardonnay which was somewhat interesting and pleasant. Sadly, of most appeal at this site were the two Alpacas: Twister and Willie, not their wines but this is another very young winery (2000) which should improve with time.  The Daisy May wines are named after a dog that they had to give away. 

• Chardonnay (no oak) - crisp
• Cabernet Sauvignon - light, good with chocolate
• Chambourcin - very good, very light
• Dallas Red (Blend of French Hybrids) - very dry, medium body but empty
• Sweet Marie (Blend of red and white wines) - sweet, not too cloy
• Carolina Springtime (Blend of red and white wines) - light, summer
• Summer Promise (Riesling based) - tasted like a Riesling
• Muscadine - not sweet, flavor of the grape but no sugar added
• Scuppernog - medium sweet, flavor okay, kind of tart
• Daisy May White - sweet
• Daisy May Red - peppery, maybe good for sangria

Twister and Willie

Grove Winery near Burlington, NC was our next stop. This is one of those wineries where they limit your tasting to 6 wines but the vivacious host let us taste a lot more. When we thought we were limited in tasting I selected one white and a few reds and a dessert wine while Brad selected all six red wines. The wines overall were okay, not great. Again, they were relatively young and honestly a bit empty - not quite there yet. However, their Sangiovese is a very nice Super Tuscan style wine with a hint of spice. This location also had a non-oak Chardonnay which seems to be a trend in NC.

• Chardonnay (non oak) - tart, light
• Traminette 2006 (non-drought) - crisp, tart
• Traminette 2007 (drought) - fruity and sweet
• Dry Rose - very tart, dry
• Cabernet Franc - light, oaky
• Tempranillo - tart, young
• Merlot - good body with some pepper
• Norton (this is a native American grape) - medium body, tart and spicy
• Sangiovese - nice and spicy
• Rosso Dolce (blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauviginon and Niagara) - would be a good sangria base
• Symphony (blend, dessert style) - very metallic
• Nebbiolo (grape used in Italian Barolo wines) - dry
• Strawberry - very good

The best part of this stop was being able to taste the same wine from the drought and non-drought years. So let’s take a moment to explain that because the differences between the weather in 2006 and 2007 was significant and it was a theme throughout this trip:

This primarily impacted the Yadkin Valley; however, some influence was also felt for vineyards near there.  There was a late freeze in spring of 2007 that killed a lot of the traditional white wine grapes. For those lucky enough to have grapes that survived there was an notable difference in flavors and sweetness between 2007 and either the 2006 or 2008 whites such as Pinot Gris and Traminette. The 2007 Traminette wines were sweeter while the 2006 year wines were dry, almost tart. In the case of Pinot Gris the 2007 was very crisp while the 2008 was nice but not as crisp. And in many instances these very unique 2007 whites were quite limited in quantity owing to the yield loses during the freeze. After the freeze, 2007 was a very hot and dry summer which impacted the flavors of the red grapes in a very positive way. Many owners indicated that they felt their 2007 reds where the best they had ever made.

Stay tuned for Day 2 and more tasting notes.

The Basics of Visiting Wineries in NC (or anywhere else for that matter)

When drafting our series on our Yadkin Valley Wine tour I realized that there are some things that need to be explained.

Directions and Hours

Most all of the wineries have websites. It is highly recommended that you consult these sites for directions as well as tasting hours. Many wineries are not easy to find and the directions they provide on the actual winery site is a lot better than relying on Google Maps.

Hours can and do change. Usually what you find on the website is the latest information (much more current than even the well presented yearly NC Wineries Map.  But if your trip would be ruined by driving an hour out of your way only to find that they have a special reason for being closed that particular day then it would be best to call and confirm. Numerous times we have been disappointed to find that something has happened and they are not open or there was that time that we showed up during a festival and they were not doing their traditional tasting sessions. There are the special occasions where we stumbled into good situations like the place that had their phone number on the sign and we decided to call before turning around and they gladly opened an hour early for us. But then we have also done that and firmly been told "I am sorry we are not open yet".

Price

Some wineries do not charge for tastings and will gladly pour you a taste of everything they make. Many do charge a fee and throw in the tasting glass as a perk. Well, the truth is that in NC unless you have a commercial dishwasher legally you cannot reuse glasses so the wineries are better off "giving" the glasses as part of the tasting - hence the cost of tasting being about what it cost the wineries for those glasses. Some wineries limit the number of wines you can taste for a set price or may offer two or more tiers of pricing. Say $5 for 6 wines or $8 for a higher number or the chance to taste the reserve wines. Almost all will offer a case discount, mix and match allowed. And while nearly all take MasterCard and Visa, very few take American Express.

What to Taste

Now is not the time to be a snob. I truly am a red wine drinker but on occasion do enjoy a dessert wine. However, I will taste any and everything that they are willing to place in front of me because you never know when you will suddenly find a wine you like that you never expected you would like. Also it is an excellent way to show appreciation for their work and it is a good conversation starter. Mentioning that you are primarily a red wine drinker but want to try the whites helps with breaking the ice. Some hosts are excellent with people but some need a little spark to open them up. Find something to talk about if you really want to enjoy the experience. Ideally it will be about the wine or wines in general. Being more excited about the cheese provided at the tasting when the location is not promoting or had anything to do with the cheese isn't a good way to break the ice (yes, we did that at Williamsburg Winery and I could tell the hostess wanted to strangle me when I asked once again what the cheese was). On the other hand I once had a host go from cold fish to my best friend when I noticed the Tuscany cookbook by their chair and started talking about how much I love to cook Italian food.

And when the conversation flows the wine will flow. Countless times we have been given a taste of everything when the fee was for only 6 wines simply because the host liked how we were enjoying the wines. Or the time I was given a glass of sangria for free for commenting on thinking the wine would be a good base for that. And the time we were "shush" offered a taste of the special reserve that they had opened just for a party that was planned at the winery that evening. And who can forget the time where our enthusiasm for the wine got the hostess to let us into the back where the wine maker was bottling and we got to taste from the barrel. Make friends and it is a better experience all around - including with your fellow tasters because chances are you will run into them at the next winery down the street.

Tasting Protocols

Number one rule - you do not have to drink the whole taste. No one will be offended if you wish to pour it into the dump bin. And you will be happier in the long run if you do toss some of the wine. A portioned pour is 2 ounces but you can get more than that at places where they are not using the portioned pour. A glass of wine is 5 ounces so 2 ounce tastes times 6 wines is basically 2.5 glasses of wine. And you plan to visit how many more wineries today?

So the next rule is food. If you are visiting multiple wineries in one day please do plan to have some food. Many sites are perfect for picnics so you can plan to bring something. Sometimes you will find food available at the wineries but it might just be bread and cheese which I think is perfect but you might want something else. And don't forget, if you are an hour from the interstate in the country where a lot of these wineries are located there may not be any food options in the area (certainly no McDonald's).

And now for the actual tasting lesson. I am not going to provide the absolute by the books lesson. Somewhere at some point in time you should get someone to go over it with you and if you visit enough wineries someone will do it. I am covering key points only. First, look at it. Do you like the color, is it clear or murky? Swirl it to give it some air. Sniff it, get your nose inside that glass for a real good sniff. What do you smell? Read the tasting card information and see if you pick up on how they describe the wine. And then taste it. What do you taste? Those are the basics. The only other thing to keep in mind is that after consuming what will become multiple glasses of wine you might find that you like everything. Beware of buying lots of wine at the end of the day because when you go to drink that wine chances are you will not have tasted a bunch of stuff beforehand and you might just find that it isn't as great as you thought it was.

What is that Grape

In NC you are going to be introduced to grapes you have never heard of before. Most people immediately think of the Scuppernog and Musadine grapes but there are many other grapes being used depending on the area and what performs well. Several European species (what most people think of as wine - grown in California and other wine producing states) have adapted well to NC and these include: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Viognier and Cabernet Franc. Some French/American hybrids do well: Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, and Villard Noir. Musadines include: Carlos, Magnolia, Sterling, Nesbitt and Noble. American Bunch grapes, aka Lambrusca styles include: Catawba, Concord, Delaware, and Niagara. Traminette is a fairly new addition to NC and is a cross between a French American hybrid and a German species.

Now go forth and explore!

Hendersonville, NC

Reposted with modifications from original posting in Facebook Notes on May 20, 2009:

On planning a trip to the Asheville area we opted to cash in some Hilton Honor points and stay three nights free in Hendersonville. It is only 20 miles from downtown Asheville and gave us the opportunity to stay free the entire stay versus only one night free in Asheville. The added advantage was we got a chance to explore Hendersonville which is something we might have never done otherwise.

Downtown Hendersonville has a limited selection of interesting shops and several nice restaurants along Main Street. It appears to be a growing scene – i.e. hip place to be now that Asheville is "overrun with tourists". Frankly, we enjoyed hanging around Hendersonville a little more than our day outing to Asheville. That is not to say that we did not enjoy Asheville and we would love to stay in Asheville within walking distance of all the cool places at some point in time. There is certainly more people watching to do in Asheville.

It was the amazing food that kept our attention in Hendersonville. And below were the places we tried and adored.

Never Blue: Tapas, wine, cocktails, bottled beer. Wonderful menu with wide range of options. Brad and I shared 4 items: Olives: warm and served marinated, Giant Ravioli: five cheese extra large ravioli topped with spinach and chipotle pepper cream sauce was fantastic, Bullfighter flatbread: serrano ham, asparagus, caramelized shallots and manchego cheese and Piadini flatbread (not on current menu so cannot list ingredients) - both were excellent. I actually ordered Eve’s Delight flatbread but got served the Piadini instead but it was very good. We shared a dessert of brittle basket with white chocolate mousse and berries – yum.

Black Rose Public House: Basic pub with nice but limited draft selection of mainly European brews (Bass, Boddington’s, etc.). Excellent Bloody Mary (Sunday special for $5), Brad had Boddington’s. Stopped in just for drink and to browse menu. Basic Irish themed bar food.

Hannah Flanagans: Second stop in for beer and menu browsing. Extensive beer list with good selection on draft. I had Sweetwater 420 which is a good extra pale ale from the Sweetwater Atlanta brewery (this beer has since become one of my go to selections). Brad had Bass because it was on special. The beer and drink specials for Sunday were much better than at the Black Rose which explained why this place was packed and the Black Rose was not. They have separate entrances for the smoking and non-smoking sides with the main bar located in the smoking side (this likely has changed since the smoking ban in NC). We had best damn wings ever as bar snack. It is like they were marinated in the wing sauce before frying - good and spicy. Got the burger with swiss and mushrooms and the smoked turkey croissant: turkey topped with bacon and cheddar on a warmed croissant. Both were very good.

And I should report that the Hampton Inn in Hendersonville was very nice having recently been remodeled.  An unexpected perk was the location of a massive thrift store and shoe outlet located right behind the hotel.

Cheese Tasting: Session 2

Again note that the educational comments about each cheese is taken from various authors and sites on the web and are not my own.

Chapel Hill Creamery Hickory Grove: (NC) is raw milk, aged cheese made in the monastery style. Rich, almost buttery-tasting, semi-firm lacy texture, delicious on its own, with apples, and as a melter (recommended for grilled cheese), Muenster-like. One of us really liked, for other it was second favorite of the four tasted in this group.

Taleggio: (Italy) semi-soft, washed rind cheese from the Valtaleggio region in Northern Italy near Lombardy. It is characteristically aromatic yet mild in flavor and features tangy, meaty notes with a fruity finish. The texture of the cheese is moist-to-oozy with a very pleasant melt-in-your-mouth feel. The combination of the soft texture, pungent aroma and buttery flavors has proven to be addictive especially when spread on crusty bread. Taleggio pairs nicely with Italian Nebbiolo wines, as well as wide range of red and whites. Goes well with fruit on a cheese board, in salads, or mixed into hot pasta or polenta since it melts well. Stinky but was okay on bread and we would try in a pasta dish but not again on its own.

Mahon DO: (Spain) From island of Menorca, is one of the few cow’s milk cheeses from Spain. Mahon boasts a certain sharpness and it lemony, salty flavors evince the rural Mediterranean seascape. Its rind contains a hard, crumbly cheddar-like texture and darkens as the wheels age. When young, the flavor is smooth, yet buttery sharp, slightly salty with marvelous creamy, nutty aroma. As it ages, these flavors intensify. At peak it is tangy, intense and delicious. Pair with Madeira or Tempranillo. Nice as tapas with olives and wine or beer. You can serve in traditional way which is sliced with olive oil, black pepper and tarragon. One of us really liked, for other it was second favorite of the four tasted that night.  We did taste it with olive oil, pepper and tarragon and that made a difference.

Goat Gouda Yodeling: (Netherlands) is quite common in this region and is made in several cheese farms. The cheese has a smooth firm texture that practically melts in the mouth leaving a sweet mild aftertaste, which makes for a lighter, creamier version of Gouda, compared to far more familiar and stronger-flavored cow versions. Good partnered with red wines such as Aglianicos, Gamays, Zinfandels, Grenaches, Sangioveses, and Tempranillos. For beers try paring with Lagers, Pilsners, Wheat Beers, Amber Ales, Trappist Ales, and Lambics. Okay, very goat cheese tasting so if you like goat cheese you will like this cheese. I am not a huge fan of eating goat cheese on its own but think it would be nice in a salad.

A New Series on Tasting Cheese: Session 1

I love cheese.  I could live on cheese, wine and bread (okay so it would likely get old after awhile and would certainly make me fat).  We do in fact make a meal out of a snack platter about once a week.  It will have some form of meat: pate, pepperoni, beef log; couple of kinds of crackers with our favorite being Pita Bites; sometimes fruit like apple or pear; and one or two hard cheeses and then a cheese spread product.  Add to that a nice bottle or two of wine and a movie or Food Network show and we are quite content. 

Awhile back I got on a kick of branching out to try new cheeses, something beyond our favorites.  Whole Foods has a nifty cheese tasting on Fridays where you can browse their deli area and find at least four or five cheeses ready for tasting.  I also really like Fresh Market for being able to get a wider variety of items beyond the regular grocery store stock.  But honestly select Kroger and Harris Teeter stores have expanded their options over the last few years.  At least that is what is available to us in this area.

So to avoid confusing and overwhelming both our palettes and the reader, the cheese sessions include only three or four cheeses at a time.  For us it is the limit of what we are willing to risk trying at one time.  There are indeed cheeses we do not like and it kind of sucks to end up with a plate of nothing you like leaving you wishing you had just bought a good cheddar.  And that is a tip - always have at least one cheese you know you enjoy.  Sometimes there is theme in the selection and sometimes no rhyme or reason at all.  I have tried to provide descriptions as written by experts for each cheese (to be clear there is rampant plagiarizing here and I have cut and pasted information from various sights so it is hard to give clear credit to original writer).  And then we give very brief thumbs up or down for what appeals to us.

Kerrygold Ivernia: (Irish) is a ripe, hard cheese. Aged for three years, it is rich in elegant and complex flavors. Cut, grate, slice or shred. Ivernia seems to be modeled after Parmigiano-Reggiano. It can be used similarly to any Italian hard cheese - in a salad of baby greens, topping a bowl of fragrant pasta, sprinkled over soup or on homemade pizza. It is also delicious simply served with crusty fresh bread. Kerrygold recommends pairing Ivernia with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti or an Irish Ale. Both of us liked but was hard to decide which is better this one or the Robusto. It does have an appealing saltiness to it.

Robusto: (Holland) a Dutch cheese with true Italian flair! Robusto is a gouda-style cheese with the nutty, slightly sharp flavor of fine aged parmesan. Its texture is more versatile, making it easier to slice, shred and melt. Aged 9 months, it’s the older cousin of popular Parrano cheese. Enjoy Robusto with a glass of full-bodied red wine such as a Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. Serve cubed on an antipasto platter or melt over pasta or roasted vegetables. Both like but hard to decide which is better this one or the Ivernia.  It does have both a gouda and a parmesan like appeal.

German Tilsit: (Germany) has light springy texture, mildly pungent and fruity, flavor intensifies when melted. Named after a town in East Prussia, Tilsit was invented by homesick Dutch immigrants trying to recreate Gouda. Due to various factors, they were unable to recreate their beloved cheese. What they did create was a brand new cheese they named Tilsit. Tilsit is made from partially skimmed pasteurized cow's milk and is semi-firm with a springy texture, dotted with irregularly spaced tiny holes. The rind is washed and brushed regularly for the first two months of aging to form an outer crust that keeps its supple, smooth interior from drying out. Tilsit has a mildly pungent aroma and a tangy taste that is delicate and fruity with spicy undertones. This German favorite is excellent on sandwiches, cold or grilled and is traditionally eaten sliced not cubed. It is also great on chicken or burgers, and also can be enjoyed melted over potatoes. Both of us found this cheese to be way too stinky to enjoy. We should have tried melted on a sandwich versus as chunk but I am not sure we would ever try again.

Aged Mimolette: (French) Mimolette aged 6-9 months is a hard cheese with a natural rind that becomes hard, dry, yellow/orange to greyish and pockmarked over time. It is buttery, nutty and salty with a slight caramelized after taste. Both liked although I liked better. Found it to have texture similar to parmesan.

Key West

In December this past year we visited Key West to try to find some warm weather. This was our third time visiting, second time in December. I had forgotten how popular Key West is with non-U.S. visitors but in hindsight I think it was the timing of the year. I would say we were greatly outnumbered by Europeans and Asians visiting the area and they were not just visitors from the cruise ships that docked there each day. Hearing a variety of accents by the pool made our trip seem even more exotic!

Once again we stayed at the Hyatt Resort & Spa (not to be confused with other Hyatt location, this one is near the wharf and historic area). It has recently been remodeled and the rooms are very nice. We did not visit the spa because the prices were too high but who needs a spa when the weather is nice enough to lay by the pool every day. Besides the pool and sundecks overlooking the water is the main draw for us to this hotel. It is also conveniently located to the historic area and made more affordable if you take part in their sunshine on sale deal where you get one night free when you pay for three nights. Service is hit or miss but then that is typical of Key West overall. Slower pace is the norm and patience is critical for being able to accept and enjoy that.

We have done the tourist stuff before so this trip was all about relaxation and good food. There are several places we enjoy going to every visit plus we also tired some new places, too.

Hog's Breath Saloon

A classic dive bar in my opinion except that maybe having more than location prevents it from technically being a dive bar. Great covered outdoor seating and bar area, music nightly, cool interior with lots of TVs for when the weather isn't great for sitting outside, cheap beer, and a feeling that everyone knows each other. This is the first place I ever had smoked fish dip, one of Brad's favorites that has grown on me over time. It is hickory smoked mahi-mahi in a creamy dip served with saltines. This time we also enjoyed the fish nuggets: chunks of mahi-mahi lightly dusted with breading and deep fried then served with tartar sauce. But in our opinion the wings are their best bar snack!! They appear to be soaked in a hot sauce then breaded and deep fried with more hot sauce served on the side. Perfectly cooked like some of the best fried chicken you ever had and we both agree they do not need the side sauce at all. We always go to Hog’s Breath more than once each trip and skip all the other touristy bars.

Mr. Z's

Last time we were in Key West we saw a commercial late one night about the best cheesesteak’s in Key West. The commercial, or maybe it was segment on one of those beach TV type channels, was extremely compelling stating that they were authentic cheesesteaks since the owner had moved to Key West from Philadelphia. I LOVE cheesesteak and am very picky and rarely satisfied with the offering at most places so we had to try it. The first one I had that trip I burned the roof of my mouth because I could not wait for it to cool. But it was so good we went back a second time during our stay. And again on this most recent trip we went to Mr. Z’s twice for cheesesteaks allowing us to have them with all three cheese options: white American, classic cheese whiz, or smoked provolone. While both the classic wiz and smoke provolone is good, my preference is the white American which they keep melted in a large vat and then pour across the top of the sandwich. For a process cheese food lover this stuff is like crack and I will eat it till I am physically sick. Mr. Z’s is a hole in the wall pizza delivery place that consists of the working kitchen behind the order counter and a row of maybe 8 barstools lined up along a make-shift bar counter running along the wall of the store. Try to get the seats near the little window so you can watch street traffic. And if you are lucky you will be in there when the “fun shift” is working who catcall to all the lovely ladies walking by (in good fun).

La Trattoria

We have eaten at this Italian restaurant every time we have been to Key West and have never been disappointed. It is my favorite spot for a really nice meal at a really decent price. The menu has a wide variety of classic Italian trattoria dishes, good wine list, and the bar knows how to make a great drink (dirty martini for me and Woodford Reserve Manhattan for Brad). The restaurant is intimate and warm with a real Italian family feel with how the staff treats you. Good spot for a romantic dinner or a fun evening with a group. We shared a Caesar salad and then I had Cannelloni della Case: cannelloni with a filling of ground veal and spinach baked in a tomato cream sauce. Brad had Agnello alla Grilia: grilled lamb chops served with fresh rosemary cassis sauce. Be careful not to confuse the entrance with the sister bar Virgilio’s which is right next door. But then if all you are interested is in a damn good cocktail then maybe that is exactly where you should go.

Rum Barrel

This was new to us as it was not there on our previous trip. Just off the crazy beaten path so still convenient but not out-the-door crowded. The menu has a nice variety of items to choose from and it is one of the few restaurants (that we visit) with a selection of beer beyond Bud Light and Yuengling (they had Smithwick’s on draft and Rogue in the bottle). The bar area is nice and the dining area is open to the street. We shared the Buffalo Rock Shrimp: rock shrimp with Cajun seasoning, lightly fried then tossed with hot sauce served with bleu cheese and celery. This was really good. Just barely fried and no heavy breading at all, tangy just like buffalo wings. Rock shrimp are the smaller shrimp and they were cooked perfectly, not soggy and the last few bites were as good as the first few. Brad had the Patty Melt which had to be one of the largest sandwich/burgers I have seen in a long time. He only ate half of it and packed the rest as leftovers for the room. I had the Lobster Pot Pie: creamy bisque loaded with lobster and mixed vegetables in a puff pastry. WOW. Generous large chunks of lobster and the bisque was good but not overly rich. I was afraid I would eat a few bites and then be tired of it but I ate the whole thing - very comforting. We liked the food and location so will add to our regular spots for future trips.

Croissants de France

This place was also new to us this trip. Two options: a walk up coffee bar with pastries or opt for the sit down bistro next door. We opted for the bistro, which has a sidewalk café feel to it, and were not disappointed. Every kind of coffee you can imagine and croissants like you never imagined; the extensive menu has European and American style breakfast items. I had the chef’s omelet of the day which had brie, tomatoes, basil and was served with a whole baguette and fruit bowl. Brad had Crepes Josephine: grilled banana, toasted almonds, cane sugar with a light rum sauce (if you set it on fire it would be a lot like bananas foster). Both dishes were generous and absolutely marvelous!

Two Friends Patio

Another new to us place. We have to put in our “too much to drink” disclaimer here. We ate here the first night after not having lunch during travel, delayed check in resulting in the hotel providing us with free champagne, high alcohol content beers at the pool bar while waiting on room, drinks and only a light snack at Hog’s Breath leading to – wait, we have not had much food and are starving ergo a visit to this place for a burger. I am sure the place is nice I just don’t really recall. I know the swiss mushroom burger we shared was the best food I have ever eaten but then cardboard dipped in ketchup would have been the best food ever at that stage in the evening.

Turtle Kraals

We always eat at one of the many restaurants along the water down at the wharf at some point during our stay for the sole purpose of eating oysters overlooking the water and all the docked boats. This time we picked Turtle Kraals and were not disappointed. We were there around 3 PM and oysters were 50 cents so we ended up having 3 dozen because they were good sized and tasted great. And this is the only place where I was offered a local beer this trip: Key West Sunset Ale, an amber with a slight hint of citrus. It was nice sitting right on the water watching people prep their boats as well as watching people walking along the boardwalk. And our waiter recognized us as being from NC from our accents! Turns out he was from New Bern.

Amigos

This place was not only new to us but brand new having only been open four weeks. They have a walkup order spot for coffee and a seating area that faces the street. Since they are located at Green and Duval they are in a perfect spot for people watching and if you go for breakfast it is a great way to see Key West wake up. We went there the first morning so Brad could get coffee and a Danish to start the day and he had the guava Danish (amazing) and black coffee. I drooled over the breakfast menu so we came back another morning and I had the huevos rancheros: fresh made tortillas topped with beans then fried eggs with tomatoes, jalapenos, onions, queso fresco and sour cream. This was absolutely one of the best breakfast dishes I have had in a long time. Everything was so fresh. Brad had the burrito which was filled with eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and salsa. It was HUGE and also very good. I had the coffee con leche and loved it. This place reports to be the only place that makes square tacos in the U.S. and you can watch them make them while you eat. My only suggestion if you go is not to sit in the front area facing the sidewalk in the morning if you plan to eat spicy food and drink hot coffee. With the sun pouring in on me I thought I was going to burst into flames! We really enjoyed this place and not only would go back for breakfast but would also try for lunch and afternoon snacks and late night snacks.